quarta-feira, 26 de outubro de 2011

Thank you, women of the 20's

 I think we, women, need to thank the women of the 20's becouse if them probably we woud still be dressing with the help of a maid that heavy and unconfourtable dresses, we would still be seen as an inferior human being, that only served to have kids and please man needs, that didn't had the right of have a decision. Yes we have to thank the women of the 20's of our liberty being who we want to be.
 Becouse of the WWI women were obliged to work, with the end of the war women continued to work, and notice that men were not a necessity for thenselfes, they were a necessity for men. They gained more liberty, starded to have a goal in life different from being at home taking care of the children. Women in the 20's were given the right to vote, making the rights between women and men equal in paper. So a new women was born, a more confident women that knew that she was equal to men, so she wanted to do things that men did, women started to smoke, drink and have a more bohemian life. They even starded to dress like men, the garçon style (thank you Coco for you marvelous pants), and the hair were a lot more short than before the famous bob.
 So every time you are earing pants, and sneackers think of them, every time you are voting think of them, every time you are in school, or in your job think of them,every time you are in the club drinking a vodka and smoking a cigar think of them, every time that you think that you want to have kids think of them becouse they have given you the choise of wanting instead of being obliged to.

THANK YOU!
 

terça-feira, 18 de outubro de 2011

FASHION-PLUS-INTERNET-EQUALS-LOVE

In my opinion internet is a very important vehicle in the spreading of the fashion industry and sense. Internet is avaiable for most of the people, is global and the same for every country. And we must be sincere nowadays most of us spend hours and hours of our time in the internet.

In this last years, fashion sites and fashion blogs had an astronomic rise in number and quality, and in importance too. Today we can see fashion bloggers and fashion sites editors among Anna Wintour, Kate Lanphear, Kate Moss in the front row of the biggest fashion shows, as Channel, Mulberry, Balmain, Dior, Marc Jacobs and many many others. Designers know how much influent these bloggers are, they reach  everyone in every corner of the planet (besides of course north corea).So they are the best publicity for their brand even more than Anna Wintour and all those big fashion editors  becouse nowadays fashion media as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, no longer as the importance and influence of other times, and sincerely they don't have the same quality too, becouse the magazines want so badly to have publicity are so greedy that it's all they are a catalogue of  ads.









vs.










In the perpective of portuguese seventeen year old girl, living in litle village where most of the people don't care about fashion or style,and just want to be cool, hip an different, and just don't know how, becouse the things that she see in her mom's Vogue are just too expensive and not wearable for school. Blogs are just the best plataform to learn and to get some inspiration, becouse we have a lot of choise, there are bloggers from all over the world with all kinds of style and age, they are everyday people (normally) and  normal people normally don't have thousands and thousands of euros/pounds/dollars to spend on clothes and accessories but the best thing about blogs is that they are real they aren't some editorial of Elle/vogue/Marie Claire, people really wear those outfits on the streets and has there personality and history and there are a mix of new with old. The style and fashion are alive on blogs.
Blogs and sites that I love:

domingo, 9 de outubro de 2011

From the 16th century court to the 2nd millenium runway

 When I'm sayng 16th i'm talkind more about the Elizabethan court, whose been a really big reference for many fashion designers, as Alexander MqQueen, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and so many others
 The Elizabethan style consists in some key caracteres as: corsets, lace, hooded cloaks, velvet, hats, feathers, big ruffs , dramatic and volumous sleeves, fur (marten , sable ), gowns (capes), padded shouders and skirts, petticoat and V necklines.
 We have a goo.d view of the Elizabethan fashion style by watching the film "Elizabeth-the golden age " (winner of the Oscar for the best wardrobe), where you can see the english court.of the 16th from the insigh






Now back to the 20th century were we are full Elizabethan inspiration, on runway and in fashion editorials.
 Examples:
  • Fashion by Sharif Hamza on Vogue Russia december 2010, where we can see a lot of inpiration, we have the ruffs, the capes, the materials: lace, embroidery. But of course not everything as an Elizabethan inspiration, most of the thing show too much skins, and the hells are too high.







  • John Gallaino for Dior haute-couture, S/S 2009.



  • Victor & Rolf ready-to-wear, Fall 2010/11

 We can see in this outfit a clear inpiration on elizabethan clothing, by looking to the big shouders, and the collar of the dress.


  • Karl Lagerfeld, for Fendi, fall 2008/09






  • Alexader MqQueen obviously in this collection has as an inspiration the colonization in the Elizabethan times; pirates, militay, tribes, aristocracy.



















Bibligraphy: